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techtalk:ref:genmsr04 [2020/10/26 17:32] hippysmack [Valve vs No Valve on Source Outlet] |
techtalk:ref:genmsr04 [2020/10/30 00:30] hippysmack [Modified Oil Tank Cap] |
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| [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | ||
| - | ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-04F ====== | + | ====== REF: General-MSR 04 ====== |
| \\ | \\ | ||
| ====== Using / Diagnosing with a Slack Tube (Manometer) ====== | ====== Using / Diagnosing with a Slack Tube (Manometer) ====== | ||
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| * [[techtalk:ref:tools173#manometer_slack_tube_for_measuring_air_pressure|Manometer (slack tube) for Measuring Air Pressure]] (what it is and how it works) | * [[techtalk:ref:tools173#manometer_slack_tube_for_measuring_air_pressure|Manometer (slack tube) for Measuring Air Pressure]] (what it is and how it works) | ||
| * [[techtalk:ref:engmech04e|Building Your Own Slack Tube]] | * [[techtalk:ref:engmech04e|Building Your Own Slack Tube]] | ||
| + | * [[techtalk:ref:genmsr04a|Modifying a Rubber Stopper for Oil Tank Pressure Testing]] | ||
| * [[techtalk:ref:engmech04g|Slack Tube Testing on a 1998 1250S Sportster]] | * [[techtalk:ref:engmech04g|Slack Tube Testing on a 1998 1250S Sportster]] | ||
| * [[techtalk:ref:engmech07p|Testing with a Slack Tube (Manometer) by bustert]] | * [[techtalk:ref:engmech07p|Testing with a Slack Tube (Manometer) by bustert]] | ||
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| | **1986-Present manometer connections**. ((drawing by Hippysmack)) | | | **1986-Present manometer connections**. ((drawing by Hippysmack)) | | ||
| |{{:techtalk:ref:genmsr:86-up_manometer_connection_points_by_hippysmack.png?direct&400|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:genmsr:86-up_manometer_connection_points_by_hippysmack.png?direct&400|}}| | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Valve vs No Valve on Source Outlet ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | A valve is sometimes used on the source outlet to connect the test line to the manometer. \\ | ||
| + | This is a safety precaution in case more vacuum is being pulled than the manometer is calibrated for. \\ | ||
| + | Example, the water level in the right leg of a U-tube manometer cannot be allowed to go down past the "U" in the bottom of the tool. \\ | ||
| + | If this happens, all of the water will be sucked inside the engine from there. \\ | ||
| + | If you have a 3 foot tall manometer and are only measuring 1 PSI or less air pressure, no valve will be needed. \\ | ||
| + | However, if the source is pulling 1-1/2" or more of vacuum, the water will be sucked into the engine unless the manometer is taller. \\ | ||
| + | A taller height of water column increases the air pressure it can measure. \\ | ||
| + | See the chart below for pressure conversions. \\ | ||
| + | If you are unsure about the amount of vacuum the engine is running, it may be best to buy a gauge that measures in In Hg or use a taller manometer. \\ | ||
| + | Or, you can install a valve on the source outlet to throttle (control) the air pressure that goes to the manometer. \\ | ||
| + | The ID of the valve needs to be no less than the ID of the source outlet (1/4" outlet needs a 1/4" or higher ID valve). \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | You can pinch off the clear hose with your fingers, start the engine and gradually let go of the hose to see if the water is going to back feed into the engine. \\ | ||
| + | That way you'll know for sure if you need a valve or not. \\ | ||
| ==== Timing Hole Plug (57-03) ==== | ==== Timing Hole Plug (57-03) ==== | ||
| Line 24: | Line 42: | ||
| | **Timing hole plug fittings** ||| | | **Timing hole plug fittings** ||| | ||
| - | |3/8" flare to 1/4" FPT fitting \\ with a 1/4" MPT to 3/8" hose barb. ((photo by aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1946516&page=4))|3/8" NPT x 1/4" NPT bushing and a 1/4" NPT to 1/8" hose barb fiting. ((photos by Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5784790#post5784790))|| | + | |3/8" flare to 1/4" FPT fitting \\ with a 1/4" MPT to 3/8" hose barb. ((photo by aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1946516&page=4))|3/8" NPT x 1/4" NPT bushing and a 1/4" NPT to 3/16" hose barb fiting. ((photos by Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5784790#post5784790))|| |
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:timing_plug_adapter_by_aswracing.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:genmsr:timing_hole_fitting_for_slack_tube.jpg?direct&300|}}| {{:techtalk:ref:engmech:homemade_slack_tube_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:timing_plug_adapter_by_aswracing.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:genmsr:timing_hole_fitting_for_slack_tube_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| {{:techtalk:ref:engmech:homemade_slack_tube_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| |
| | Fitting installed (just snugged up) with clear hose and a homemade manometer. ((photos by Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5784790#post5784790)) ||| | | Fitting installed (just snugged up) with clear hose and a homemade manometer. ((photos by Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5784790#post5784790)) ||| | ||
| Line 54: | Line 72: | ||
| |6000 \\ RPM|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:checking_cc_pressure_at_timing_hole_plug_6_by_bustert.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:checking_cc_pressure_at_oil_tank_6_by_bustert.jpg?direct&300|}}|6000 \\ RPM| | |6000 \\ RPM|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:checking_cc_pressure_at_timing_hole_plug_6_by_bustert.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:checking_cc_pressure_at_oil_tank_6_by_bustert.jpg?direct&300|}}|6000 \\ RPM| | ||
| - | ==== Valve vs No Valve on Source Outlet ==== | + | ==== Modified Oil Tank Cap ==== |
| - | A valve is sometimes used on the source outlet to connect the test line to the manometer. \\ | + | You can drill a hole for an NPT fitting in a spare oil cap or make a cap just for testing. \\ |
| - | This is a safety precaution in case more vacuum is being pulled than the manometer is calibrated for. \\ | + | The one below was made from a rubber plug bought at Lowes. [[techtalk:ref:genmsr04a|Click here]] to see the pics of the mod. \\ |
| - | Example, the water level in the right leg of a U-tube manometer cannot be allowed to go down past the "U" in the bottom of the tool. \\ | + | |
| - | If this happens, all of the water will be sucked inside the engine from there. \\ | + | |
| - | If you have a 3 foot tall manometer and are only measuring 1 PSI or less air pressure, no valve will be needed. \\ | + | |
| - | However, if the source is pulling 1-1/2" or more of vacuum, the water will be sucked into the engine unless the manometer is taller. \\ | + | |
| - | A taller height of water column increases the air pressure it can measure. \\ | + | |
| - | See the chart below for pressure conversions. \\ | + | |
| - | If you are unsure about the amount of vacuum the engine is running, it may be best to buy a gauge that measures in In Hg or use a taller manometer. \\ | + | |
| - | Or, you can install a valve on the source outlet to throttle (control) the air pressure that goes to the manometer. \\ | + | |
| - | The ID of the valve needs to be no less than the ID of the source outlet (1/4" outlet needs a 1/4" or higher ID valve). \\ | + | |
| - | + | ||
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:genmsr:homemade_test_oil_cap_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
| - | + | If you're testing the 04-up plastic oil tank for high pressure, the oil cap is not going to be helpful as a test point. \\ | |
| + | You need a tee installed in the vent line for that. \\ | ||
| ====== Testing crankcase pressure ====== | ====== Testing crankcase pressure ====== | ||
