Differences

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--- techtalk:evo:priclutch01 [2021/09/30 00:51]
ixl2relax [Clutch Release Adjustment - Why & How]
+++ techtalk:evo:priclutch01 [2023/09/11 13:45]
ixl2relax [Clutch Pack Stack Height]
@@ Line 84: / Line 84: @@
 Due to the large number of spring plate failures on 04+ models; \\
 Many owners are replacing the spring plate with two extra steel plates and one more friction plate. \\
-See [[techtalk:evo:priclutch01#spring_plate_failure|Spring Plate Failure]] below. \\
+See below for [[techtalk:evo:priclutch01#spring_plate_failure|Spring Plate Failure]] and [[techtalk:ref:priclutch02|Clutch Parts & Mods - Aftermarket]] for other options.\\
 |  Measuring the spring plate ((photos by Hippysmack))  ||
 |{{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:measuring_uncompressed_spring_plate_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:measuring_compressed_spring_plate_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
@@ Line 110: / Line 111: @@
 ----
-{{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutch-stackheight-chart.jpg?600}}((Annotated by IXL2Relax at the XLForum))
+{{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutch-stackheight-chart.jpg?650}}((Annotated by IXL2Relax at the XLForum))
@@ Line 136: / Line 137: @@
 {{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutchadjustments-diagram.jpg|clutchadjustments-diagram.jpg}}((Illustration created by IXL2Relax at the XLForum))
-The diagram illustrates three zones on the Clutch Lever - When fully released, Zone(1) is the 1/8" Cable Free Play where there is no tension whatsoever from the cable pulling on the lever - The lever just sorta dangles there in its mount… As you pull the Clutch Lever toward the handlebar, you reach Zone(2)((Tomcatt of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761621&highlight=clutch#post5761621)) which is the Adjuster Free Play - The cable is now pulling on the Ball & Ramp, rotating it to expand, but it is not pulling on the clutch pressure plate, yet. This brings us to Zone(3)((thanks to Jollly Rogers for the suggestion http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761695#post5761695)) which occurs when the Ball & Ramp has expanded far enough to actully begin pulling the Clutch Pressure Plate away from the Clutch Pack. Zone(3) continues all the way until the Clutch Lever reaches the handlebar. If adjusted correctly, you will have these three distinct zones in the movement of your Clutch Lever and the Clutch Pack will be fully dis-engaged before the end of Zone(3) - before the lever is against the handlebars.
+The diagram illustrates three zones on the Clutch Lever - When fully released, Zone(1) is the 1/8" Cable Free Play where there is no tension whatsoever from the cable pulling on the lever - The lever just sorta dangles there in its mount… As you pull the Clutch Lever toward the handlebar, you reach Zone(2)((Tomcatt of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761621&highlight=clutch#post5761621)) which is the Adjuster Free Play - The cable is now pulling on the Ball & Ramp, rotating it to expand, but it is not pulling on the clutch pressure plate, yet. This brings us to Zone(3)((thanks to Jollly Rogers for the suggestion http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761695#post5761695)) which occurs when the Ball & Ramp has expanded far enough to actually begin pulling the Clutch Pressure Plate away from the Clutch Pack. Zone(3) continues all the way until the Clutch Lever reaches the handlebar. If adjusted correctly, you will have these three distinct zones in the movement of your Clutch Lever and the Clutch Pack will be fully dis-engaged before the end of Zone(3) - before the lever is against the handlebars.
 Zone(2) diminishes as the plates wear. The actual lever free play (Zone(1)) should not change as the clutch plates wear - Here's why:
@@ Line 167: / Line 168: @@
   * The "feel" at the release arm where the clutch cable attaches is very distinct so you have a high degree of confidence you got it right.
   * There should be some play at the release arm to assure there is no preload tension on the Diaphragm Spring & Pressure Plate.
+  * **See this XLForum Post for a discussion of the adjustments:** http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5918480#post5918480\
 Now, go back to the Clutch __Cable Adjuster__  - Unscrew the two parts to lengthen the Adjuster just enough that there is still 1/8" of free play in the clutch lever movement BEFORE IT BEGINS TO ENGAGE THE CLUTCH RELEASE (check this at the cable connection to the lever) - Now tighten the Jam Nut on the cable adjuster and move the rubber boot back over it…
@@ Line 174: / Line 176: @@
 |  **NOW PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL!!!**  |
 |  **BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN OPERATING THE BIKE AFTER MAKING A CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT\\ IF YOU GOT IT WRONG, THE BIKE MAY SURGE FORWARD WHEN YOU PUT IT IN GEAR\\ EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE THE CLUTCH LEVER PULLED FULLY AGAINST THE GRIP!!!\\ BE SAFE - CHECK & DOUBLE CHECK!!!**  |
 \\
@@ Line 311: / Line 314: @@
 This was to reduce the effort required to pull the clutch lever. There was also a change in the\\ clutch cable in 2007 to help reduce the clutch lever effort.
-|  Notice the difference in the slots between the Diaphragm Spring fingers of '91-'03 and '04-later springs.\\ On the left is an '01 example and on the right is an '06 example. Both are 883 model springs.((http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4923807&postcount=7 - Graywolf))((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915 - CJBurr))  ||
+| Notice the difference in the slots between the Diaphragm Spring fingers of '91-'03 and '04-later springs.\\ Above left is an '01 example and on the right is an '06 example. Both are 883 model springs.((http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4923807&postcount=7 - Graywolf))((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915 - CJBurr))\\ Below are two more examples of diaphragm springs.((pic from IXL2Relax)) ||
 |  {{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutch-assy-01-883-stock-graywolf.jpg?300|}}  |  {{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutch-assy-06-883-stock-cjburr.jpg?300|}}  |
+|  {{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutch-diaphragm-spring-compare.jpg?600|}}  ||
 ====== Spring Plate Failure ======
@@ Line 337: / Line 341: @@
 Some power shifting users take this opportunity to replace the stock Diaphragm Spring with one that is stronger. Others try to avoid making the clutch lever pull harder and may even install clutch release kits that ease the clutch lever pull.
-If you have an actual failure of the Spring Plate, with missing rivets having been strewn around the primary cavity, be sure to check everywhere those bits may have gone. The clutch basket may have been scored by the failure which will require careful filing to remove any burrs or, if bad enough, may require replacing the clutch basket. If not properly repaired, the new plates will not move smoothly to release the clutch engagement.
+<font 14px/Arial>
+**Repairing the Damage**
+</font>
+If you have a failure of the Spring Plate, with missing rivets having been strewn around the primary cavity, be sure to check everywhere those bits may have gone. The clutch basket is likely to have been scored by the failure. When the rivets fail, the spring strips that the rivets were holding will now slip out from between the steel plates of the spring plate. Exactly where the spring plate is located in the stack these spring strips make a gouge in the clutch basket (and in the clutch hub). This will require careful filing to remove any burrs created by the gouging or, if bad enough, may require replacing the clutch basket & hub.
+Use a fine file and carefully check & smooth every finger of the clutch basket that has a gouge (see the pic below). You want to file the side and top corner where the finger is gouged. DO NOT FILE more than necessary to smooth that side face & corner. It is not necessary to remove the flat portion of the gouge from the finger. Due to the friction plate design, they ride on the sides of the fingers & not the top flat portion (this applies to the hub fingers as well). File off only enough metal for a perfectly smooth movement along the side face and inward corners of the fingers. **If not properly repaired, the new plates will not move smoothly to release the clutch during dis-engagement.**
-Also, the existing clutch plates (either steels or frictions) may have been warped during the failure. If the Spring Plate disintegrated, it is best to replace all the steels & frictions to avoild carrying damaged parts foward to damage new parts. You should also carefully check that the Pressure Plate & Release Plate have not been damaged, nor any other primary components (chain, sprockets, etc).
+Also, the existing clutch plates (either steels or frictions) may have been warped or otherwise damaged during the spring plate failure. If the Spring Plate failed, it is best to replace all the steels & frictions to avoild carrying damaged parts forward to damage new parts. You should also carefully check that the Pressure Plate & Release Plate have not been damaged, nor any other primary components (chain, sprockets, etc).
 Here are images of the carnage resulting from the Spring Plate Failure:\\
-{{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutchbasket-springplaterivets-blown-jbyun.jpg?250|}}((Image by jbyun - xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915)){{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutchbasket-rivetdamage-blown-vferdman.jpg?250|}}((Image by vferdman - xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915)){{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:springplate-blown-xlxr.jpg?250|}}((Image by xlxr - xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=302142))
+{{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutchbasket-springplaterivets-blown-jbyun.jpg?280|}}((Image by jbyun - xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915)){{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutchbasket-rivetdamage-blown-vferdman.jpg?280|}}((Image by vferdman - xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915)){{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:springplate-blown-xlxr.jpg?280|}}((Image by xlxr - xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=302142))
 \\