Differences
This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.
techtalk:evo:oil01q [2024/02/02 01:59] hippysmack created |
techtalk:evo:oil01q [2024/02/02 02:03] (current) hippysmack |
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====== Oil Pressure Switch Removal and Installation ====== | ====== Oil Pressure Switch Removal and Installation ====== | ||
+ | ====== Installation ====== | ||
+ | {{ :techtalk:evo:oil:oil_pressure_switch_threads_by_hippysmack.png?direct&300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
+ | **Caution**: __DO NOT tighten the oil pressure switch too tight__. \\ | ||
+ | It will either strip the threads in the filter housing or crack the filter housing. \\ | ||
+ | If you don't have access to a torque wrench or can't get one to fit in there, use a "hand tight plus a little" approach when tightening the switch. \\ | ||
+ | You can also clamp a nut in a vise if needed, install a bolt and tighten it to 5-7 ft/lbs. \\ | ||
+ | Then use a open/box end wrench to feel the point where it turns. \\ | ||
+ | Then you have a bench mark 'feel' for how tight to turn the pressure switch with the same type wrench. \\ | ||
+ | This one got tightened too much and cracked the filter housing. | ||
+ | Don't over tighten to try and stop a leak. It doesn't take much oomph to seal the pressure switch. \\ | ||
+ | Don't use silicone on the threads. Thread tape may break off and enter the filter or the engine. \\ | ||
+ | In theory, you should be able to stop a leak from the switch threads without any thread sealer because of the tapered threads. \\ | ||
+ | But thread sealer of some type (Loctite, plumbing pipe dope or other) is suggested. \\ | ||
+ | Keep in mind that any thread dressing applied will pre-load the torque needed. \\ | ||
+ | So be sure to back down on final torque when using thread sealants. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== If the switch cracks the filter housing ====== | ||
+ | If you used the proper torque and it still leaks oil, you may need to pull the switch and filter and look for a crack in the housing. \\ | ||
+ | Pull the switch and the filter so you can see both the housing and the hole threads. \\ | ||
+ | It only takes a little more than needed to crack the housing. \\ | ||
+ | The switch threads are tapered. Turned too far in, the taper widens the hole and expands the aluminum around the hole. \\ | ||
+ | The hole is near the end of the filter pad. \\ | ||
+ | With little surface area between the hole and the end of the housing, that is the weakest part and where cracks will appear. \\ | ||
+ | If yours has cracked, it'll need to be welded. The crack will only get worse with vibration. \\ | ||
+ | The thing about welding is it causes warp-age. Once it's welded, the threads for the switch will probably need to be reconditioned as the hole may warp. \\ | ||
+ | If so, you can try and chase the threads with a tap. \\ | ||
+ | You may have to go with a threaded bushing (bigger threads into the housing with smaller threads on the other end) to add the switch back. \\ | ||
+ | Also the main purpose for the filter pad is the machined flat surface for the filter. \\ | ||
+ | It will need to be checked for flatness after welding so the filter don't leak. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | The no weld version is: ((Tomcatt of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/199475-oil-pressure-light/page3?t=2076356&page=3)) \\ | ||
+ | Clean the crack thoroughly with brake cleaner or contact cleaner. Screw the pressure switch in to open up the crack and clean it some more. It's gotta be CLEAN. \\ | ||
+ | Remove the switch and apply 290 Loctite (no substitutes) to the pressure switch threads and hole and screw in the pressure switch. \\ | ||
+ | After the switch in in place apply 290 Loctite to the crack so it can wick into the crack. \\ | ||
+ | Cross your fingers while the Loctite cures. \\ | ||
+ | Loctite 290 is a thread locker you apply to the fastener after it's been installed and tightened and it's used to seal cracks and/or weld porosity. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Also check the threads in the hole. \\ | ||
+ | Too much torque will damage aluminum threads pretty fast and to different degrees. \\ | ||
+ | Clean the filter mount surface and verify there is no crack and then inspect the threads for the switch. \\ | ||
+ | The thread pitch in the housing is 1/8" NPS (non tapered). You can run a tap into the threads and try to straighten them if needed. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Cracked**: | ||
+ | This filter housing was cracked due to too much torque being applied while tightening the oil pressure switch. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{:techtalk:evo:oil:2000_1200s_cracked_oil_filter_housing_1_by_vagrant318.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by vagrant318 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/199475-oil-pressure-light/page2#post4397333)) {{:techtalk:evo:oil:2000_1200s_cracked_oil_filter_housing_4_by_vagrant318.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by vagrant318 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/199475-oil-pressure-light/page4?t=2076356&page=4)) {{:techtalk:evo:oil:2000_1200s_cracked_oil_filter_housing_3_by_vagrant318.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by vagrant318 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/199475-oil-pressure-light/page4?t=2076356&page=4)) \\ | ||
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