Differences
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| techtalk:evo:oil01q [2024/02/02 01:59] – created hippysmack | techtalk:evo:oil01q [2024/02/02 02:03] (current) – hippysmack | ||
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| ====== Oil Pressure Switch Removal and Installation ====== | ====== Oil Pressure Switch Removal and Installation ====== | ||
| + | ====== Installation ====== | ||
| + | {{ : | ||
| + | **Caution**: | ||
| + | It will either strip the threads in the filter housing or crack the filter housing. \\ | ||
| + | If you don't have access to a torque wrench or can't get one to fit in there, use a "hand tight plus a little" | ||
| + | You can also clamp a nut in a vise if needed, install a bolt and tighten it to 5-7 ft/lbs. \\ | ||
| + | Then use a open/box end wrench to feel the point where it turns. \\ | ||
| + | Then you have a bench mark ' | ||
| + | This one got tightened too much and cracked the filter housing. | ||
| + | Don't over tighten to try and stop a leak. It doesn' | ||
| + | Don't use silicone on the threads. Thread tape may break off and enter the filter or the engine. \\ | ||
| + | In theory, you should be able to stop a leak from the switch threads without any thread sealer because of the tapered threads. \\ | ||
| + | But thread sealer of some type (Loctite, plumbing pipe dope or other) is suggested. \\ | ||
| + | Keep in mind that any thread dressing applied will pre-load the torque needed. \\ | ||
| + | So be sure to back down on final torque when using thread sealants. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====== If the switch cracks the filter housing ====== | ||
| + | If you used the proper torque and it still leaks oil, you may need to pull the switch and filter and look for a crack in the housing. \\ | ||
| + | Pull the switch and the filter so you can see both the housing and the hole threads. \\ | ||
| + | It only takes a little more than needed to crack the housing. \\ | ||
| + | The switch threads are tapered. Turned too far in, the taper widens the hole and expands the aluminum around the hole. \\ | ||
| + | The hole is near the end of the filter pad. \\ | ||
| + | With little surface area between the hole and the end of the housing, that is the weakest part and where cracks will appear. \\ | ||
| + | If yours has cracked, it'll need to be welded. The crack will only get worse with vibration. \\ | ||
| + | The thing about welding is it causes warp-age. | ||
| + | If so, you can try and chase the threads with a tap. \\ | ||
| + | You may have to go with a threaded bushing (bigger threads into the housing with smaller threads on the other end) to add the switch back. \\ | ||
| + | Also the main purpose for the filter pad is the machined flat surface for the filter. \\ | ||
| + | It will need to be checked for flatness after welding so the filter don't leak. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | The no weld version is: ((Tomcatt of the XLFORUM https:// | ||
| + | Clean the crack thoroughly with brake cleaner or contact cleaner. Screw the pressure switch in to open up the crack and clean it some more. It's gotta be CLEAN. \\ | ||
| + | Remove the switch and apply 290 Loctite (no substitutes) to the pressure switch threads and hole and screw in the pressure switch. \\ | ||
| + | After the switch in in place apply 290 Loctite to the crack so it can wick into the crack. \\ | ||
| + | Cross your fingers while the Loctite cures. \\ | ||
| + | Loctite 290 is a thread locker you apply to the fastener after it's been installed and tightened and it's used to seal cracks and/or weld porosity. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | Also check the threads in the hole. \\ | ||
| + | Too much torque will damage aluminum threads pretty fast and to different degrees. \\ | ||
| + | Clean the filter mount surface and verify there is no crack and then inspect the threads for the switch. \\ | ||
| + | The thread pitch in the housing is 1/8" NPS (non tapered). You can run a tap into the threads and try to straighten them if needed. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | **Cracked**: | ||
| + | This filter housing was cracked due to too much torque being applied while tightening the oil pressure switch. \\ | ||
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| + | {{: | ||
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