• A 2“ long 20 gauge wire (70105-73) was added on FL,FLH, FX, FXE, XL and XLCH models to act as a fuse-able link. The fuse wire protects wiring between the battery and the lighting, ignition and accessory circuit breakers. In place of this HD part, any 20 gauge braided wire will work also. But, don't use any heavier gauge wire. The opposing wiring is heavier gauge so this fuse-able link acts as the weakest conductor in the circuit. ¹⁾
  • On Xl, the wire is connected between the regulator “BAT” terminal and the red wire connector in conduit leading to the starter solenoid (long) terminal.
  • On XLCH, the wire was connected to the battery ”+“ terminal and to the red wire connector in conduit leading to the regulator “B+” terminal.
• Before replacing the fuse wire, check for shorts in the wiring or the ignition switch to determine the cause of the burnout.

• New 13 amp generators were used in 1982 produc­tion XLs featuring thrust washers (4 thicknesses to adjust armature endplay from .004“-0.010”) between the rear end cover and rear ball bearing. ²⁾
• After engine VIN (1HD1CAH1XCY111183) the torque spec was lowered for the armature gear shaft nut at the oil separator washer to 6-8 ft/lbs in order to prevent bowing of the oil separator washer (which can lead to generator noise). Engines exhibiting unusual generator 'whistling' should be checked for this condition. If the washer is found to be deformed it must be replaced. ³⁾
• This generator can be retrofitted to 1965 models with some guidelines for retrofitting: ⁴⁾

1. A new voltage regulator (74504-82) must also be used to realize the full 13 amp output.
2. A new style drive gear (31073-63A) must be used.
   • The internal spline of the old style drive gear will not properly match the spline on the new armature shaft.

• Do not use the new style voltage regulator (74504-82) with a 10 amp generator, component damage can result.

See these XLForum Threads regarding Generator Operation & Testing:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39146
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=559976

In some cases, the starter relay used on 1974 to 1979 1200, 1340 and 1000cc models may develop corroded contacts because of moisture under wet road conditions. ⁵⁾

Testing

• Using a 12 volt test light, ground one of the leads and touch the other lead to each large relay terminal.
  • With ignition switch “on”, one of the terminals should light test lamp.
  • When starter button is depressed, the relay should operate and the other large terminal should light the test lamp.
• If lamp does not light, touch test lamp lead to small relay terminal with starter button depressed. If lamp lights, relay is defective and must be replaced. If relay does not light, control circuit from starter button to relay is faulty and must be checked for continuity.
  

Installation

• Caution, before removing the relay, disconnect the battery.
• Before installing the relay (71463- 73), dip the base of relay in insulating paint or apply with a brush (sealing agent such as GE Glyptal insulating paint) to ensure a good gasket joint seal. This paint (No. 1201 Red Enamel) is available in one quart cans from General Electric distributors.
• The relay is mounted by 2 screws below the battery carrier.
• When reinstalling relay, add two shake­ proof washers between base plate and battery carrier to provide a good grounding circuit.
• Reconnect the wiring to the relay and the battery and check starter operation.